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The cellar

Sorted by flavour, not by appellation

Marc Mira, who runs the house and its cellar, drives the wine regions himself and picks every bottle. The list does not read by region but by what the wine does in the mouth.

A dark wood wine cabinet, backlit shelves and bottles lying behind the glass door
A backlit golden onyx wall holding some twenty bottles, in front of a fluted terracotta banquette
A bottle of rosé champagne lying in a weathered metal bucket engraved Deutz

The bottles are chosen in the room, from the house wine list.

Sweet

Sugar stays in the mouth after the swallow. These are the dessert and late-harvest wines.

At the table

With the foie gras terrine and its chutney, or at the end of the meal, with dessert.

Fruity

Fruit leads, ripe and direct, without the wine being sweet for it. The easiest family to please a table that cannot agree.

At the table

With the burrata and its multicoloured tomatoes, or the sea bream tartare with mango vinegar.

Fresh

Acidity holds the wine upright and leaves the mouth clean. What you want when the terrace is hot and the plate tastes of the sea.

At the table

With the fried squid, the salmon gravlax, or the tuna tiradito.

Sparkling

Bubbles clear the palate between mouthfuls.

At the table

As an aperitif at the bar, or right through the meal with the Iberian ham.

Bitter

A clean bitterness at the finish, of citrus peel or almond. It wakes a rich plate up where a round wine would weigh it down.

At the table

With the sliced raw artichokes and their light anchovy sauce.

Astringent

Tannin grips the gums and scrapes the fat away. A sensation rather than a taste, and what makes grilled meat easier to eat.

At the table

With the Angus ribeye, or the Iberian lamb shoulder for two.

Spiced

Pepper, liquorice, scrubland herbs. The spice comes from the grape and the ageing, never from an addition, and it stretches the finish.

At the table

With the beef tartare and its truffle petals, or the braised beef with fresh gnocchi.

Silky

The wine coats the mouth. Often a white aged on its lees, sometimes a red with no edges, following a sauce instead of cutting it.

At the table

With the Saint-Jean ravioli in truffle cream, or the scallops in champagne sauce.

Full-bodied

Weight and volume, a wine that stands up on its own in the glass. The family of bottles you open for the whole table.

At the table

With the octopus tentacles and baba ganoush, or the lobster linguine.

Warming

The alcohol shows, as warmth rather than burn.

At the table

After dessert, or with the truffled chicken supreme.

Tell the sommelier what you are eating and what you like drinking: the ordering is built for that question.

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